 South America |
South America Travel Guide
South America
South America is vast. Within its vastness is contained a diversity unmatched anywhere on the planet. 'Diversity of what?' I hear you ask. The answer is 'just about everything'. It is a continent -the fourth largest- with a population of over 355 million. With the exception of a few remote tribes, the greater part of this population is of mixed descent. The landscape varies wildly. There are mountains, rivers, waterfalls, jungles, deserts, beaches and craggy coastlines.
Contained within its boundaries are 12 countries all of different size, geography, population and personality. There is tiny Surinam or the giant Brazil. There is landlocked Paraguay or the 4,000-km coast of Chile. There are cities, ancient and modern. There is history and mysterious pre history. There is breathtaking scenery and wonderful wildlife. It stretches from the warm Caribbean in the north to the icy oceans of the south. There are glaciers and rain forests, rolling grasslands and islands like no others.
All of this is there for the visitor to explore. Much of the continent is still untamed, although tourist 'routes' are increasingly well trod, there is still a 'wild frontier' element that is only just off the beaten track. That is in those areas where there even is a beaten track!!.
Health
South America is a dangerous place to be if the correct health procedures are not observed both before and during the trip. Check with your local doctor or travel health clinic well in advance to find out about immunisations required. Try to do this at least two months before departure.
Disease is not the only thing to be wary of. Many attractions in South America are found at high altitude which can cause problems, allow yourself time to become acclimatised to the rarer atmosphere.
Be careful what you eat and drink. Try to stick to bottled water for everything (even teeth cleaning), if not ensure water is thoroughly boiled before consumption. Avoid raw food (it is often cleaned in the aforementioned water) well-cooked food will always be a safer bet.
Be careful in the sun.
Take care of cuts and grazes. In the kind of climate you will experience infectious bugs multiply at an amazing rate.
Cover up and use anti bug ointments and unguents to avoid insect bites.
Most major towns and cities have good medical services but if you are away in the back of beyond you may not be so lucky.
Visas
Most South American countries do not require a visa but in an ever-changing world it is always as well to check this prior to departure (Brazil is one exception to this, US New Zealand and Australian visitors do need visas). Most countries will stamp your passport for ninety days, some places it is very easy to extend beyond this. In some cases however you may need to hop across the border to another country then back again to start all over.
Other paperwork you may require is an international driving permit (from your local automobile association) tickets for your next destination and funds. You may also need a yellow fever vaccination certificate but check this out first.
Beware of...
Despite media attention most of South America is perfectly safe if you use common sense. Petty theft is a possibility anywhere particularly crowded tourist spots. Do not tempt the thieves. Make sure money and paperwork are always safe. Use hotel safe deposit boxes. Report theft immediately to the police that helps with insurance claims if nothing else.
Avoid badly lit areas and don't travel alone. Always tell someone where you are going and how long you expect to be. Don't accept food, drink or cigarettes from anyone you do not know.
Do not get involved in any way with any aspect of the trade in drugs.
Check out the destination thoroughly beforehand for information on Guerrilla activity, political unrest, bandit hold up routes and any other local hazards. Heed any advice that is given.
Insurance
Make sure you have more than enough to cover you for any eventuality. Make sure you have comprehensive health cover, having yourself evacuated by air can be costly.
Make sure you are covered for loss of money, tickets, credit cards and all belongings.
Travelling around
South America does not seem to have come to grips with the train. Almost any other form of transport works just fine. Planes are a good fast and comparatively cheap way of going long distances whilst the bus service is comprehensive across the continent.
Cash and Plastic
The US dollar is the easiest form of easily converted cash to carry. The same can be said of traveller's cheques, US dollar ones are more widely recognised.
Credit cards are widely accepted in the towns and cities but obviously the further off the beaten track you venture this is less likely to be the case. The same is true of debit/ATM cards, great for withdrawing cash in the city not so useful up the jungle. Care should be taken when withdrawing cash and ensure your PIN number is known only to you.
Do not carry any more than you need.
Brazil
Population: 155.5 million
Size: 3.25 million sq. miles
Capital City: Brasilia
Currency: Real
The word colourful is used often when describing Brazil; trouble is, the word colourful just isn't, well, colourful enough. Words like lively, exciting, invigorating, noisy, exuberant also fail to do full justice to the place.
Think of Brazil and any one of a number of vibrant images may spring to mind. Maybe it is the debauch that is The Carnaval in Rio or Copacabana Beach. Perhaps it is Jesus atop Sugarloaf Mountain or the effervescent passion of the football. Possibly the first thing that springs to mind is the jungle, mile upon verdant mile of trees, the threatened 'lungs of the planet' and the mighty Amazon River. Perhaps your idea of Brazil isn't a picture but a sound, the country moves to the beat of Samba. Alternatively, perhaps the roar of the towering Iguazu Falls is more to your taste.
Wildlife is abundant, check out the jungle or the Panatal, a huge wetland that teems with life of all kinds.
If you are in need of a refreshing, stimulating break then Brazil may just be the place for you.
Argentina
Population: 32.5 million
Size: 1 million sq. miles
Capital City: Buenos Aires
Currency: Peso
Argentina is a Latin country with a very European twist. It was created by the large number of Europeans who have made it their home over the centuries. For some of the finest examples of colonial architecture, visit Buenos Aires. Because of this history of immigration, visitors to the country are welcomed warmly.
Argentina's natural attractions include the spectacular Iguazu Falls -on the border with Brazil and Paraguay- the vast grasslands of the interior (the Pampas), the highest Andean peaks and the wild and desolate coast of Patagonia. Patagonia is the place where Butch and Sundance may, or may not, have finished up. Legend says they did. It is also the place for seal and whale watching (remember the killer whales that learnt to beach themselves in pursuit of a sealion supper? That happened here.)
One inescapable fact of Argentinean life is the Beef, some of the worlds finest.
Peru
Population: 22.3 million
Size: 496,222 sq. miles
Capital City: Lima
Currency: Nuevo Sol
Peru has stepped out of the shadow of its larger neighbours on the other side of the Andes to become one of the destinations for world travellers.
It has tropical rainforests, the dizzying majesty of the Andes, Lake Titicaca, the Nazca Lines on the Atacama Desert and the jewel in the crown Machu Pichu.
The conquistadors may be cursed as the bringers of death, disease and pestilence to the native population but they also left behind some fine colonial buildings that can be seen throughout Peru.
Up the Jungle
The part of the Amazon that is in Peru comprises covers nearly two thirds of the country. Much of the Peruvian Amazon is contained within national parks; one of the foremost is the Manu National Park. In the park, only about 20% of its total 1.8million hectares are accessible to visitors. This is a haven for birdwatchers although many species of mammal can also be seen including Jaguar.
Where do you keep your Andes?
Despite the large area covered by jungle it is the Andes that hold the imagination as the dominant feature of the landscape. The Andes are the highest mountains outside of the Himalayas, they stretch down the western side of the continent and they give rise to the mighty rivers of the interior. Those wishing to take in the breathtaking - literally - scenery should make for Huarez. This town has been a Mecca for backpackers and mountaineers for many years.
The Incas and Machu Pichu
Aside from their spectacular visual impact, the Andes was the mountain home of the Incas. The centre of the Inca Empire was the city of Cuzco (the name means navel or belly button). When Pizarro and his conquistadors found the city it was at the height of its powers. Cuzco was the administrative centre of an empire that stretched from what is now Ecuador down into northern Chile.
Many Inca sites can still be seen the most famous of these is the still mysterious Machu Pichu. Machu Pichu was only discovered in 1911 having evaded the avaricious gaze of the Conquistadors. The exact reasons for its being are, even now, only being guessed at, as is the precise manner of its construction. This is a South American must and one of the best ways to enjoy it is as part of the Inca Trail, this is a 3 or 4 day hike through the mountains and can be very hard going. It is possible to hike the trail alone if this is for you then make sure you are properly prepared for its rigours. Many people prefer to take guided tours the main advantage being that someone else takes on the logistical burden.
The Incas were the last of the Peruvian civilisations but the ruins left by their predecessors are also to be found all over the country.
Tough to Avoid
It is almost impossible to visit Peru without passing through the capital, Lima. Lima is one of the worlds most crowded, polluted cities with weather that can make Manchester look sunny. The only thing that remotely recommends it is the nightlife and a number of half-decent museums. As the capital, Lima is the place with the big hotels and the main airport; this makes it some people's choice as a base for visiting the rest of the country.
Lake Titicaca and the Nazca Lines
The two other great attractions in Peru are Lake Titicaca and the Nazca Lines.
Titicaca is not the worlds highest lake, as everyone (including me) had been led to believe, it is, however, the largest in South America and the largest above 2000 meters in the world. The countryside and the unique flora and flora encircling the Lake makes it an excellent place to visit. The main port on the lake is Puno and this is a good base from which to explore the lake and the surrounding Andean altiplano. This is the place to visit if you are hoping to catch some local native colour. Whilst Spanish influences are apparent in the local music and dancing the 'Indian' influence is still very strong. The exuberance of the dancing alone makes it worth seeking out.
A deeper mystery than Machu Pichu surrounds the Nazca Lines. Were they a message to ancient astronauts, did Erich von Danniken put them there with a very large pencil or are they an astronomical calendar. One thing is for sure these giant depictions of animals can only be fully appreciated from the air and despite all manner of theories -some reasonable and some clearly insane- as to their origin they remain a conundrum.
Chile
Population: 13.25 million
Size: 292,250 sq. miles
Capital City: Santiago
Currency: Peso
Chile is the long skinny one. Over 2.5 thousand miles long Chile is never more than 120 miles wide. Due to its great length and varied geography, the weather can be variable in the extreme. It is possible to take part in all sorts of outdoor pursuits from wildlife watching to skiing and white water rafting. Chile has the Andes for hiking and mountaineering, whilst stunning beaches offer windsurfing. There are also volcanoes, deserts, glaciers and fjords.
On the cultural/anthropological side there are numerous Inca ruins plus the giant stone heads of Easter Island.
Santiago, the capital, is a lively place that has a number of museums. Particularly worthwhile is a trip to the Pre Colombian Museum. The city is also close to the mountains and therefore is an excellent base for exploration further afield.
Venezuela
Population: 20.2 million
Size: 352,143 sq. miles
Capital City: Caracas
Currency: Bolivar
A country with a lot to offer the first time visitor to the continent. Due to the money derived from oil (it is the worlds sixth largest producer) there is a highly developed infrastructure and getting around is very straightforward. The beaches of the Caribbean coast are popular and well set up for tourists. However, a few miles inland and you can find yourself well and truly off the beaten track.
The single biggest natural attraction are the Angel Falls, the worlds tallest waterfall, named after the US pilot who first discovered them. Venezuela sits at the top of the Andes chain so hiking and trekking to suit all levels of adventurous endeavour can be found. In the delta of the Orinocco river there is excellent watersports and wildlife viewing.
Caracas is a modern bustling city with high rise buildings yet it has retained many fine old buildings that now house museums or are national landmarks. As a mark of the stature of the city, the university is home to 50,000 students and a lively cultural scene.
Colombia
Population: 33.75 million
Size: 440,500 sq. miles
Capital City: Bogota
Currency: Peso
Colombia probably does not have the greatest reputation just now and whilst it is unlikely to win any awards for family package destination of the year if you are sensible it is a perfectly good place to visit. One advantage of Colombia's reputation is that you won't have throngs of other tourists to contend with. The country has good beaches, unspoilt rain forest and mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy and Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The people are friendly, the colonial architecture is a joy and the capital is a place full of energy. If it weren't for the likelihood of being kidnapped by insurgents this would be a great place to holiday.
Ecuador
Population: 10.75 million
Size: 109,000 sq. miles
Capital City: Quito
Currency: Sucre
'The country with something for everyone' sounds like a travel brochure cliché but in the case of Ecuador it happens to be true.
Probably most widely known for the Galapagos Islands Ecuador can also offer hiking climbing and trips into the Oriente. The Oriente are the Amazonian lowlands that are absolutely brim full of wildlife, There are several parks and reserves here all of which offer tours to some extent or another.
The capital of Quito is a wonderful place both to visit in its own right and as a base for further exploration.
Excursions to the Galapagos are expensive and very highly regulated. If you are able to afford it then go for the experience of a lifetime. These islands were the evolutionary pressure cooker that finally clarified in the mind of Charles Darwin the theory of evolution. It is possible to see the giant tortoises, marine iguanas, sealions and the only penguins living in the Northern Hemisphere.
Bolivia
Population: 7 million
Size: 425,000 sq. miles
Capital City: La Paz and Sucre (2 capital cities! Wow, that could easily baffle a stupid person.)
Currency: Boliviano
Named for 'The Liberator', the Venezuelan General Simon Bolivar who helped the country win its independence from Spain. Bolivia is one of few South American countries without a coastline and its development has been hampered by its geographical position. It is hemmed in by the Andes to the west and the Amazon to the east. The standard of living in Bolivia is low.
The isolated position does however have advantages. The population is more than 50% Indian this leads to a cultural heritage not seen elsewhere. The scenery varies from the high mountains to the jungle with rich fertile valleys and grasslands in between. Bolivia also jointly administers Lake Titicaca with Peru.
For those with an interest in archaeology or anthropology, there are a wealth of places to visit with ruins and colonial relics commonplace. Wildlife watching is excellent and the people are charming.
Bolivia has two capital cities. Sucre is the official capital where the Supreme Court sits but the real capital is La Paz. This is the larger of the two centres and is the administrative heart of the country. La Paz is, at almost 4km above sea level, the worlds highest capital (I had always thought that was Amsterdam). La Paz is well served with colonial churches and museums but Sucre is the more picturesque of the two.
Bolivia is not yet on the 'Gringo Trail' but given what it has to offer, it cannot be long before hordes of backpackers are trooping around its yet undiscovered treasures.
Uruguay
Population: 3.25 million
Size: 72,000 sq. miles
Capital City: Montevideo
Currency: Peso
This nation sits on the coast wedged between Brazil and Argentina. Half the country's population lives in the capital, which is also a major port. Uruguay has a comparatively high standard of living but sadly the country is in the grip of a financial crisis that has been going on for some years. This has come on the back of a period of political unrest and upheaval.
The scenery of Uruguay is similar to that of the Argentinean Pampas. With few National Parks the only feature of the landscape that pulls in tourists are the beaches, which are very popular.
Montevideo is a pleasant city with its fair share of colonial buildings but all in all Uruguay is a country to pass through on the way to somewhere more inspiring.
Paraguay
Population: 4.75 million
Size: 157,000 sq. miles
Capital City: Asuncion
Currency: Guarani
One of the two landlocked countries on the continent, Paraguay is only now becoming known to the outside world. Cut off initially by its own geography but then by the military dictatorship of Stroessner (overthrown in 1989), Paraguay has opened itself up to the world and visitors are made most welcome.
The capital of Ascuncion is one of South America's oldest cities (1537) and although little remains of the old style colonial buildings the city does boast a few decent museums and open spaces.
Elsewhere in the country, there is jungle with a number of parks containing mainly unspoilt rain forest. Also worth a look is the Itaipu Dam the world's largest (at the moment) hydroelectric project.
Paraguay is a great place for those who want to make fresh footprints on the backpacker trail; most of the country is 'off the beaten track'.
Paraguay is a largely undiscovered gem whose charms will grow on any visitor.
Suriname
Population: 430,000
Size: 55,000 sq. miles
Capital City: Paramaribo
Currency: Suriname Guilder
This small country on the Northern Atlantic coast of South America is an oddity compared to the rest of the continent. Alone amongst its fellows Suriname is a former Dutch colony. The Old Dutch Masters (colonialists not painters) imported large numbers of slaves from the Far East, particularly Indonesia, to work in the plantations. This has placed Suriname in the unique position of being the only country on the continent where the main religion is not Roman Catholicism but the Hindu faith.
The heat and humidity can be unbearable and away from the capital it is a much-undeveloped land. The tourist trade is similarly undeveloped which many find appealing.
The biggest attraction for visitors is the jungle. Suriname can still boast large tracts of unspoilt rain forest. There are many national parks, chief amongst which is the Brownsberg Nature Park. In all the parks there are guided tours available. Try to go with 'respectable' guides recommended by people or organisations you know and trust.
The capital, Paramaribo, is an exotic blend of races. This, coupled with the equally curious mix of Asian and European architecture makes it a very interesting place to visit.
French Guiana
Population: 102,000
Size: 35,135 sq. miles
Capital City: Cayenne
Currency: Euro
A French 'overseas department' the country relies heavily on its 'mother country for support. It is a hot sticky place with a very unsophisticated infrastructure. It is a swampy, jungly kind of place; an ideal location for the penal colonies (including the infamous Devils Island) France maintained here for nearly 150 years. The prison at Kourou became home to the French space programme in the 1960's.
The advantage of this lack of infrastructure and development is that the rain forest is largely untouched.
The capital of Cayenne is pleasant enough and has a distinct European feel to it.
The major drawback of French Guiana is that although it is a poor and undeveloped place, dependent on France to keep it going, it is an expensive place to visit. Expect to pay Parisian prices.
Guyana
Population: 750,000
Size: 83,000 sq. miles
Capital City: Georgetown
Currency: Guyanese Dollar
On the northern coast of the continent, Guyana shares much with its neighbour French Guiana. It is hot and humid to an extent many find uncomfortable, there is an undeveloped infrastructure and prices can be high. The one advantage it has over its neighbour is that travelling to see the unspoilt, teeming jungle is more easily achieved. There is also white water rafting and the spectacular Kaieteur Falls.
There is a large Hindu population and racial tensions have run high in the past with violence between the Indian and black populations. Guyana is a country to be wary in, especially in the capital Georgetown.
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