Texas Travel Guide
Austin
This may be the State capital but hotbed of political intrigue it ain't. During the 1960's, Austin was a hippy hang out haven to rival San Francisco. Much of this laid back ambience still curls about the city like smoke from a bong.
The city came into being when the state (at the time an independent Republic) president was looking for an alternative to the sweaty swamp that was Houston. He fixed on Austin despite the fact that it was little more than a small town on the banks of the Colorado River. Despite early difficulties with the local native inhabitants ( I can't begin to imagine why the Comanche wouldn't want a city built on their territory) the city has prospered ever since.
The city has a cosy almost small town appeal, it is safe to walk around, has wonderful and extensive green spaces and you don't need a car to enjoy it. Austin never acts like capital of the second largest state in the Union. The large student population ensure that there is never a dull moment and it has a musical reputation to rival Memphis or New Orleans.
Things To Do, Places To See
Bats
Texas has a state small mammal (the armadillo), a state large mammal (Longhorn cattle) and, unbelievably, an official state flying mammal. That's right they have as a mascot an officially recognised State bat. It's the Mexican Freetailed bat and in Austin it positively swarms. Each evening people gather to see the worlds largest urban colony of flying mice hit the skies from their roost under the Congress Avenue Bridge as they go looking for their supper. These million and half bats apparently account for over 10,000 lbs of bugs per night. This has got to be seen.
Music Everywhere
Austin has an enviable tradition for music and musicians of all sorts from the blues of Blind Willie Johnson to the intensity of Janis Joplin and more recently the Butthole Surfers. Music is everywhere, whatever you like there is a club or bar that will be playing it. New music and experimentation is encouraged, and big rock bands are frequent visitors.
The South by Southwest Festival in Mid March is a massive 10 day event spread over 50 venues in Austin. The festival features music from Texas and the wider world beyond. It is possible to see ajor acts, up and coming acts and all points in between, every kind of musical genre is on show here.
The University
The University of Texas is a wealthy place, hardly surprising as it does have its own oil well. The Harry Ransom Centre has an extensive library and art gallery. The latter houses a rare Gutenburg Bible and a collection of 20th century art from the Americas.
Part of the campus also includes the LBJ Library and Museum which, whether you liked the man or not, give an insight into many major events of global significance. The JFK years, Vietnam and the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960's are all covered as well as LBJ's life and times.
Political Places and other Touristy Stuff
Although Austin is famed for its freewheeling outlook, it is the State capital and it does have the trappings to suit.
The State Capitol building itself is huge at over 300 feet tall. The most striking feature of this Washington copy is the red granite dome that tops the whole edifice off. Close by is the Governors Mansion, a pre civil war building, it has a number of interesting exhibits relating to Texan history.
Those curious to know more about Texas' past should visit the Bob Bulloch Texas State History Museum.
The 351 acre Zilker Park is the perfect place to escape the heat and hustle of the city. Apart from hiking and biking there is also the Umlauf Sculpture Garden, the Austin Nature and Science Garden The park highlight though is the pool. Barton Springs Pool is a huge, naturally fed, refreshingly cool (or freezing cold, depending on your view of these things) swimming hole. Ideal for cooling off on a sweaty summers day.
Another decent stretch of green is Mayfield Park; very tranquil. Nearby Mt Bonnell is an (nearly) 800 foot hill, the steep climb is rewarded by views over the city and the wide open spaces beyond.
Eating, Drinking and Sleeping
Due to its 'alternative' slant on Texan life the food on offer is more than just Tex-Mex staek and ribs menus, some of the food may even be healthy; vegetarians aren't viewed with suspicion in Austin.
The range of hotels, hostels, campsites, motels and B&B's is what one would expect from a city this size. Book well in advance if you are planning a visit during the music festival in mid March.
The nightlife is nuts, whatever you want is here. The live music scene is, as has been said, brilliant, there are many bars and clubs of all sorts but Austin also has Opera, theatres and a symphony orchestra. Take your pick.
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