South Carolina Travel Guide
Charleston
Widely acknowledged as one of the most attractive towns in the USA this old port town still retains an air of Southern gentility. Named for Charles the Second, 'Charles- town' has long been a noteworthy place.
Initially it was a seaport and trading centre, the rice went out and the slaves came in. By their thousands. Founded in 1670 as a major seaport Charleston has always enjoyed an ethnically mixed population which gave a flavour distinct from many other towns and cities of the South.
Charleston was ravaged by the war. Fort Sumter, where it all began was right in Charleston Harbour, subsequently it was hammered by Union artillery until eventual capitulation in 1865. However with the end of the war Charleston's misfortune did not stop. The economic decline felt all through the South was especially acute here and the earthquake of 1886 did little to aid recovery. The Second World War re-established Charleston as a seaport and Naval base of some importance and real recovery, reconstruction and preservation began.
Now Charleston is a tourist haven, trading heavily on it's colonial past and why not, it looks sumptuous.
Things To Do: Places to See.
The best way to take in a full flavour of Charleston is just to stroll around its compact central area. There are specific places to visit but just ambling and gawking at the elegant old buildings, soaking up the atmosphere, is a delight in itself.
Lovely Old Houses
There are many to look at as you stroll around the 'historic district', several are open to the public but it is the strolling that makes this area a pleasure. If you do want to venture inside, out of the mid-day heat, then the following are recommended: The Nathaniel Russell House with its amazing spiral staircase, Aiken-Rhett (Rhett Oh Rhett!) House including slave quarters whilst the Heyward-Washington House is one of the oldest and a place where Washington stayed.
Also worth a look is the market, a lively spot, a bit touristy for some but with an energetic appeal. The area also has many old churches including the French Huguenot Church where services first began in 1681.
Museums and Arty Stuff
For a solid grounding in the history of the state, the best place to begin is the Charleston Museum. Somewhat incongruously, this claims to be the oldest museum in the country despite being housed in a brand new building. The collections are varied but include sections on agriculture, architecture, the war (obviously) and the numerous races that have populated the state at one time or another.
The Confederate Museum presents a very Southern view of a conflict that is still an issue in South Carolina. This is essentially a shrine to the Rebel cause, packed with memorabilia from the Confederate side.
The Gibbes Museum of Art is centred on exhibits and art from the colonial past.
The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon is a splendid old building that has seen service as a customs house and jail. Now the upper floors house a decent museum centred on the part the building played in the city's history. Below, in the dungeons, are more dramatic, animatronic, exhibits illustrating episodes of revolutionary daring and piratical activity.
Fort Sumter
Before the war actually began, the North sent troops to relieve this island fort. The South under General Beauregard demanded their surrender and so hostilities commenced. As the war ebbed and flowed around it, Fort Sumter withstood Union shelling for two years until final surrender in 1865. The shelling left the fort little more than a pile of rubble but there is still an atmosphere of the past that lingers. This, coupled with a decent museum and a river trip that gives great views of Charleston make Fort Sumter worth a visit.
And Now For Something Completely Different.
If you tire of hearing about the war and admiring the 'lovely old houses' then this could be the answer. Take a trip to the brilliant aquarium. Situated on the harbour - side it is based around a marine natural history of the state. Included are exhibits on the marshes, saltwater swamps and the sea itself. There are reptiles - including 'Gators - and fish of all kinds. The centrepiece is a 40-foot deep tank. If you venture out onto the terrace, you may be lucky enough to see dolphins - still in their wild state - as they swim by.
If you want to distance yourself yet further from the historical old town some decent beaches are only quarter of an hour away. Folly Island, the Isle of Palms and Sullivans Island are the most popular.
To escape from the heat of the day try the shady Waterfront Park or go a little to the south for the White Point Park and Gardens where a cooling breeze blows over the water and the sunsets light up the mansions of the South Battery.
Eating, Drinking and Sleeping
For a bite to eat visit the Market Street area, there are loads of places to choose from and many are a shade pricey but the food is excellent. Southern Style cuisine is a speciality but there are plenty of other types of restaurant as well.
The same that is true of the food can be said of the hotels. Those in the centre are pricey but they tend to be in former mansions. You won't often get the chance to stay somewhere that looks like some of these places do.
Away from the centre, on the city outskirts is the usual US mass of motels that offer more affordable accommodation.
There are many live music venues and lively bars. Check out local listings magazines and take your pick.
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