California Travel Guide
Monterey
Sitting at the south end of Monterey Bay this town goes back deep into California's Spanish heritage. South of San Francisco, north of LA, Monterey was established in 1770 as a Spanish military centre. It grew to become the administrative heart of a vast Latin territory, firstly under the Spanish and then under Mexican rule. When the US took control in the mid 19th century the towns influence began to wane as it was eclipsed by events and places elsewhere. Monterey flourished again in the 1930's as the centre of the sardine canning industry. Now the town relies on the tourist trade for its prosperity but its appeal lies in its location and the Spanish/Mexican buildings that are still in existence.
Cannery Row
In 1945, the sardine fisheries brought a quarter of a million tonnes of fish to the canneries of Monterey, five years later sardine stocks crashed and the canneries never recovered. John Steinbeck memorably captured this brief period in his novel 'Cannery Row'. This wonderful depiction of the less than glamorous lifestyle of cannery workers is recognised as one of Steinbeck's finest. The dubious fame that Steinbeck bestowed on Monterey is, perversely, its fortune now. Visitors flood in to spend time in the restaurants, galleries and boutiques that are housed in restored cannery warehouses. It is difficult to see Steinbeck seeing the funny side.
Citizen Hearst
Not strictly speaking a Monterey 'attraction', Hearst Castle is some two hours drive to the south, but worth visiting because it is the worlds biggest house.
Newspaper magnate Randolph Hearst built this giant monstrosity in 1919 at a cost of $30 million. It is ostentation on speed, bad taste on nandrolone. OK that may be a bit strong but it certainly is a mixture of styles and is undeniably flamboyant and to this day, with over a hundred rooms, it remains the largest dwelling ever built by a private individual in the world.
Also not in Monterey
Carmel, a gorgeous town famed for its rugged coastline, rugged ex mayor (Clint) and robustly high property prices, is reached from Monterey by a short trip down 17 Mile Drive.
Carmel marks the start of the stretch of coastline known as Big Sur. This is a truly stunning place; there are few people and fewer buildings. Breathtaking.
Things to see and do
Monterey Bay Aquarium
Apart from the setting, if there is a reason to visit Monterey then this is it. Over two million visitors a year are tempted by one of the world's biggest collections of sea life. The main attraction is the massive Kelp Forest Tank showing the typical oceanic world that lies off much of the Californian coast.
Monterey State Historic Park
For a peek at the past, visit this collection of restored historical buildings. All are worth a visit for their architectural and historical interest; best of the bunch is the Monterey Custom House and the Larkin House. Fans of Treasure Island may like to view the house where Robert Louis Stevenson wrote his piratical tale in 1879. The house, once a hotel now houses an extensive collection of Stevenson memorabilia.
Not far away is the Maritime Museum of Monterey, which includes exhibits, covering the rise and fall of the sardine industry. Also nearby is Fisherman's Wharf a lively, tacky place but worth visiting for the seafood on offer.
Eating, Drinking and Sleeping
Eating and drinking in Monterey and the surrounding areas is easy, all price ranges are catered for and the seafood is always fresh. The main event on the social calendar is the Monterey Jazz Festival in mid September. This top class happening is the worlds longest running continuous jazz fest. Mmmm nice.
There is accommodation of all sorts on the Monterey Peninsula from camping up to high-class hotels.
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