Sweden Travel Guide
Information
If Scandinavia were a group of brothers then Sweden would definitely be the big noisy one. Certainly it occupies the largest surface area and is the most populous. In many ways, Sweden is everyone's idea of what Scandinavian countries should be. It is modern, efficiently but fairly run and the friendly people take a modest pride in their achievements. Life expectancy and standards of living are high and it is a peaceful, crime free place. All this is more or less true although the recent killing of the Swedish foreign minister has certainly shaken the country to the core.
Sweden has historically always been at the heart of Scandinavia. Whilst their Norwegian counterparts were off to the New World, Swedish Vikings made for the Middle East. They travelled down the river systems, reaching to the Black and Caspian Seas. This proved very profitable, as Swedish Vikings seem to have had more of an aptitude for trade than their counterparts. Not that they were entirely adverse to the odd bit of rape and pillage.
Following the Viking era were years of turmoil and military/political struggle between the Scandinavians and their neighbours and it wasn't until the early part of the 17th century that Sweden emerged as a real European power. Under Gustavus Adolphus 'the Lion of the North' Sweden forged a considerable North European Protestant empire, one that fought long and hard against the Catholics of the Austrian Empire.
Sadly, the Empire that was gained was soon lost. Sweden, with limited manpower and natural resources fell prey to the ambitions of the Russians and the Germans. The Napoleonic wars did them no favours either.
Sweden was slow to come to the Industrial Revolution and this, coupled with a rising population and falling food production, caused a mass exodus (mainly to the USA; where do you think the Simpsons originated from?) in the late 19th century.
The two World Wars saw Sweden maintaining a position of neutrality although this was not quite so straightforward as it sounds. Post war saw the country on the edge of the Cold War with Soviet Russia on their doorstep and Nato on the other side. It was here that Sweden earned its reputation as peacemakers and deal brokers on the international diplomatic stage.
More recently the Swedes have joined the EU; this followed a narrowly won referendum. Even now, Sweden seems undecided about the value of the EU; they have just rejected joining the monetary system of the Euro.
The other event that brought Sweden into the limelight was the assassination of Olof Palme, the Prime Minister, in 1986. The crime, as yet still unsolved, threw the country into turmoil. Suddenly the peaceful, civilised and tolerant world they had created was shattered as one of the countries most popular and successful politicians was gunned down as he returned home, unguarded, from a trip to the cinema.
Where to go that isn't Stockholm
Uppsala
An ancient town that lies just 70 km north of Stockholm, Uppsala is most notable as the home of the first university in Scandinavia (1477). There is a 15th century cathedral and an 18th century castle and the ancient burial grounds at Gamla Uppsala. The cathedral is enormous, the largest in Scandinavia, it is not an architectural triumph however the interior is worth a look. Being a university town and seat of learning there are several halfway decent museums. The Gustavianum is part of the university built in 1625 now it houses several small collections of antiquities.
Gothenburg
Sweden's second city is an unabashed trade city. Trade and therefore interaction with the world and Europe in particular has given Gothenburg a decidedly cosmopolitan air. Settlers from abroad namely Dutch, German and British have left an unmistakeable mark on the city. Many of the large merchant houses, in a variety of styles, can still be seen today.
Places not to be missed include Gustav Adolfs Torg (the original town square) and its surrounding buildings - if you can get into them. For information on Gothenburg, its history and people, visit the Stadsmuseum. For those with an interest in the world of art then a visit to the Konstmuseum is a must. Other museums include the Military Museum and Natural History Museum. The Rohsska Museum is the only applied art museum in Sweden.
For a relaxed stroll check out the attractive Haga district with its faintly bohemian/trendy atmosphere. The succinctly named Tragardsforeningen is a park with a palm house and butterfly house amongst modern sculptures all set against a verdant backdrop.
Oooh Look at all Those Trees
To fulfil your expectations on how Sweden should look then you need to venture into the North and Central parts of the country. This is a vast untrammelled world of lake and forest. The few settlements that you encounter will also confirm your ideas on Swedish log cabin type living. In the very far North, you are firmly in Sami territory. In this land the Sami have roamed with their reindeer for centuries, sadly theirs is a culture under threat.
To view this wild, green countryside you could do worse than take the train that cuts the land in two from top to bottom.
Worth a look are the national parks in the far north (hiking here not for the fainthearted though) for a true taste of 'wilderness'. Many of the towns en route are worth a brief stay to soak up the rural flavour. The area of Dalarna is a must see, the countryside here is more gentle and agricultural. Go to the towns and villages surrounding Lake Siljan; very pretty. Also, check out Orsa with its bear park.
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