Norway Travel Guide
Oslo
Despite being the oldest of all the Scandinavian capital cities, (founded approx 1050 AD) it is only in the last 50 years that Oslo has begun to emerge as one of Europe's most dynamic seats of commerce. In the past, the city suffered from the fact that it was ruled from Copenhagen or Stockholm. At one time, its name was changed to the Swedish 'Christiania' only reverting to its Norwegian name in 1925. Oslo, due to the size of its population exerts a huge influence over the rest of the country; it is the major commercial, industrial centre for the country and this gives the whole place a breezy, cosmopolitan confidence not seen elsewhere. However, the town centre remains as it was in the 19th century with many fine buildings (not great, but very nice all the same). This is the epicentre of tourist Oslo, home to the cities finest museums.
Where to Go and What to See
The Vikings and Other Seafaring Stuff
The most significant impact that Norway has had on the world at large came from the Vikings. Traditionally portrayed as hairy, drink sodden lunatics desperate for a fight (something like a cross between Rugby players and the Hells Angels) the Vikings true nature has only become apparent in the past few years. An elevated level of art and a more highly refined society than had been suspected has gradually begun to emerge from in-depth archaeological work. It was from Norway that the Norsemen first set out from. This initial exodus was a result of overcrowding and shortage of land on the West coast of Norway. The Viking legacy is a source of great pride to the Norwegians and is celebrated in the excellent Viking Ships Museum.
This museum has as its centrepiece three 9th century Viking ships. The Oseburg, a burial ship, is the most spectacular partly because it came with its treasure trove intact. The somewhat better preserved Gokstad is the best example we have of a Viking longship. The third boat in the collection is the Tune but this is much less well preserved. The whole museum is well thought out and worth a visit.
Nearby the Norwegian love affair with the sea is further articulated in the Kon Tiki Museum. Kon Tiki was the balsa wood raft that Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl in 1947 sailed from Peru to the South Pacific islands of Polynesia. He basically sailed a boat made of modelling wood across some of the most inhospitable oceans the world has to offer just to prove a point. The point being that the South Sea Islanders may well have originated in South America.
Also on show is Ra II, a boat made of bundled reeds, that Heyerdahl used in 1970 to prove a similar point that North Africans may have reached the Americas long before anyone else. I suspect this tells us more about the Norwegians than just the fact that they like the sea !!??
Just a short step away are two more museums with a seafaring theme. One is based around the Polar ship Fram which served Norwegian explorers of the polar ice caps and carried Roald Amundsen on his trip to the South Pole. The other museum is slightly less impressive, which is a little disappointing given that it claims to be the Norwegian Maritime Museum.
Munch and Ibsen
Given the size of Norway's population it has punched well above its weight on the world cultural stage.
If you have not heard the name Edvard Munch, (1863-1944) his best-known picture will be familiar to you. 'The Scream' painted in 1891 depicts a figure open mouthed and clutching its hands to its face in despair. Such work typified the early works of Norway's most famed artist. Other works with titles such as 'The Sick Child', 'Melancholy', 'Ashes' and 'Death in the Sickroom' pretty much give you the picture. Munch is an artist who somewhat bucks the trend. As you might expect he made the descent into drink and madness but against all the odds, pulled himself out of the pit going on to produce works of greater light and hope. His works can be seen in the National Museum but also in the Munchmuseet, which contains many of the works, he bequeathed to the city on his death.
Despite the fact that he spent much of his time elsewhere in Europe, Henrik Ibsen (1828-1906) is recognised as the father of modern Norwegian drama and one of the world's greatest playwrights. 'Ghosts', 'An Enemy of the People', 'A Dolls House' and 'Hedda Gabbler' are amongst his best known works. Ibsen attributed the themes of his work to the harsh and often dark northern environment that drives people to introspection and a longing for the sun.
Fans of the cheery playwright should visit the Ibsen-Museet, housed where Ibsen was living at the time of his death.
Akerhus Castle
For a real taste of medieval Oslo go to this 14th century fortress. The Castle overlooks the harbor and has seen a traumatic past. From being burnt and bombarded to housing the Nazis during the war it has seen the lot. Extensive restoration work has been done since the castle fell into disrepair. But this is no mere relic of the past; it is still classed as a military base and may be closed for state receptions.
In the grounds there are two museums dedicated to military struggle. One is the Norwegian Armed Forces Museum. This has weaponry on show and features on military conflict the country has engaged in from the Viking Era to WWII. The other museum is apt given the Nazis use of the castle previously; it is the Resistance Museum. The part Norway played in the war and the resistance movement are recounted, as is the fate of the nations Jews. The museum is also frank about the role of collaborators during the war. This is not just for Second World War buffs but is of interest to everyone.
Museums, Galleries and Culture Generally
For art lovers in Oslo the place to go is the National Gallery, the receptacle of the largest collection of art in Norway. The big attraction is 'The Scream' by Munch but other works abound, including Picasso, Monet and Matisse. A little less mainstream is the Museum of Applied Art with design work, ceramics and tapestries from the dark ages to the present day. Elsewhere is the Museum of Contemporary art featuring mostly post WWII Norwegian art.
History buffs should go to the excellent Historisk Museet. Displays of Viking jewellery and ornaments, religious art, an Arctic display and an Ethnographic section make this well worth while. The other place to go is the Norwegian Folk Museum (not far from the seafaring stuff) this does pretty much what it says on the label, don't miss the Stave Church in the outdoor section though.
For more outdoors stuff go to the Frogner Park the centrepiece of which is the Vigeland Sculpture Park. Vigeland started this in 1924 and was still working on it when he died in 1943. It is huge. For more fresh air, go to the Botanical Gardens and Zoological Museums.
Food Drink and a Place to Sleep
As you might expect there are cuisines of all sorts available. The cafes represent best value for a meal but the real Norwegian food experience is at a seafood restaurant; this is likely to be a little more costly.
Despite the costs and the repressive government attitude to alcohol this in no way constrains the Oslo bar scene, which is very lively but again comes with the health warning on price. The club scene is also lively although for live music don't hold your breath unless you happen to be a jazz fan. Summer is, for obvious reasons, the best time to visit for the variety of events that are staged.
Accommodation of all sorts is widely available but expect budget priced rooms to be hard to come by during the height of summer.
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