Norway Travel Guide
Information
So, What's it Really Like?
Norway is a vast sprawling and sparsely populated country with great natural beauty. The Norwegians revel in the great outdoors and head off into the wilds at the drop of a reindeer felt hat. From the remote and pristine Svalbad in the very far north to the famed Fjords of the west, to the vast coniferous forests along the Swedish border there is a terrible compelling beauty everywhere. However there is more to Norway than just the scenery. The Vikings as explorers and conquerors have given the world a lasting legacy whilst Norway can lay fair claim to more than its fair share of poets, writers, artists and composers.
Although the country shows signs of settlement from 10,000 years ago, it was with the Vikings that they first began to appear on the spectrum of European peoples. The Vikings of Norway explored and rampaged their way west to Scotland, Ireland, Iceland and ultimately America. They created an empire across that part of northern Europe. Norwegians sat on the throne of England (Canute), founded Dublin and even attacked as far south as Seville. However, in the 14th century, a Swedish king came to the Norwegian throne and Norway remained under the rule (or at best influence) of one or other of its Scandinavian neighbours until independence in 1905.
Independence saw a very healthy economy, a vast shipping fleet and cheap power from hydro electricity. The Great War put a stop to all that despite the country maintaining a neutral position. Post war the collapse in demand for shipping saw Norway join the rest of the world in recession. The Second War saw Norway fare little better and again despite its neutrality it suffered greatly. The Nazis invaded in 1940 under the laughable pretext that it was to protect the Norwegians from the British. The resistance movement was very strong; a fact universally recognised after the war.
The major aspect of political life since the war has been to EU or not to EU. Despite several referendums and huge political will (at times) in favour of joining, the people have sensibly resisted the urge to join. North Sea Oil has fuelled increased prosperity.
Money Too Tight to Mention
This is no budget holiday destination. The price of alcohol is almost legendarily high and you can expect to pay for everything from toll roads to church and museum entry. Against this transport appears more reasonable and moderate prices are possible for accommodation.
The Great Outdoors
In Norway, the outdoors is truly great. For one of the worlds most challenging outdoor experiences visit Svalbad. The scenery in this piece of the Arctic is stunning, the wildlife, bears, seals, and whales are truly unforgettable. Due to the adventurous nature of a visit here, independent travel is discouraged. Most people visit this northern archipelago on an organised trip. Not cheap but worth every penny.
Alternatively, go to Finnmarksvidda in the north of the mainland, a land of lakes 'belonging' to the Sami, the indigenous people of Norway. For 'extreme' hiking look no further than a 50 km, trek through the Reisa national park.
These are just two examples. There are national parks (21 of them) all over the country taking in forest, tundra, mountain, moor land and dramatic coastlines all offering opportunities for trekking and wildlife watching.
Pining?
What you need is a trip to the fjords. These deep, rugged inlets from which the Vikings sallied forth have always formed a part of the picture that the outside world has of Norway. And with good reason, for the fjords dominate the western seaboard. These vast flooded glacial valleys are easily accessed in the southern part from the town of Stavanger or the larger city of Bergen. The scenery on the more southerly coast is greener, more agricultural and the weather is less hostile than further north. Be prepared for rain, which it gets an awful lot of.
Highlights in the south include the Lysefjord, which lies close to Stavanger and is considered by many to be the finest in Norway. The most easily reached from Bergen is the 120 km long Hardangerfjord. Getting around the fjords is, due to the topography, not very easy. There are coastal steamers and ferries and a road system, all of which serve the villages that dot the fjord margins.
Many consider the Western Fjords (lying further north than the South Western Fjords, Ok is that straight now?) to be the more archetypal. The Sognefjord is the longest, deepest and most forbidding with cliffs rising up to a thousand feet around it. The best way to see it is from the water. The village of Flam, sitting at the head of Aurslandsfjord (an offshoot of the Sognefjord) is well worth a visit and is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Norway. In contrast to the size of Sognefjord is the smaller but arguably more breathtaking Geirangerfjord.
The fjords cover a vast area and it is probably not possible to visit them all on one trip but just a brief visit gives a view of one of the worlds most singular coastal landscapes.
Stave Churches
These ancient timber churches are of major architectural significance. There are currently only 29 and they are mainly found in the South and Central regions. The curious and distinctive feature of these ancient (12th Century) places of worship is that they are constructed by placing timber vertically in the ground and not horizontally in classic log-cabin style. The largest is at Heddal not far from Oslo. This church was restored in the 1950's thus rectifying an earlier ham fisted effort in the 19th century. Amongst its decorations there are Christian and Viking images alongside each other. This typifies these churches. Not too distant lies the Stave Church of Borgund another well-restored example of these long lasting buildings.
Bergen and other places that aren't Oslo
With its medieval center still in good order Trondheim is worth a visit. It is a small place with a wealth of history behind it, both as a former seat of the Viking (Norse) parliament and as a trade base due to it's large secure harbor. It's a lively University town and if you go nowhere else check out the Cathedral.
Trondheim is Norway's third city just ahead of Stavanger. Now this is a full on industrial oil boomtown and whilst there is not as much of interest here as in other places it does have a half decent cathedral and harbor and it is handy for the southernmost fjords. Also the oil money and civic pride has made it a very clean and ordered place to visit.
Bergen stands head and shoulders above the rest as Norway's second city. In its time it has served as capital and home to the monarchy, however the Black Death (1359) put something of a crimp in its growth. It was only in the 17th century that Bergen emerged as a foremost trading port and Norway's largest city. It was its part as one of the major ports of the Hanseatic League that assured the cities prosperity.
If you visit Bergen you can't fail but see the Bryggen, a series of timber buildings and warehouses housing restaurants and museums and shops that used to be the old port and harbor buildings. Such is the significance of the Bryggen that it is on the UNESCO world heritage register. The Bryggen is just part of the historical ambience of the city. There are many quaint cobblestone streets and houses to match. Whilst you are there visit the Hanseatic Museum, the Kunstmuseum (art museum) and for views over the city go up the Floibanen funicular. Bergen however is by some distance Norway's second city, being half the size of Oslo
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