Denmark Travel Guide
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So, What's It Really Like Then?
Denmark sits between its northern Scandinavian neighbours and the rest of mainland Europe. It is essentially a series of islands perched in the mouth of the Baltic and although diminutive in size it has been a great sea power, trading nation and the head of a sizable northern European empire (the Faroe Isles and Greenland still form part of the Danish Empire).
Yet they have no hang-ups about their days of lost empire, they are content with their high quality of life in an efficient but friendly society that values its freedoms and its culture. Now I wonder if there is a lesson for any other nations here?
The history of Denmark seems to have been one of eternal struggle with its neighbours. If they weren't fighting the Swedes, conquering the Norwegians or squabbling with the Germans it is kind of difficult to see what they did for hundreds of years. They even managed to find time to side with Napoleon in a war against, well just about everyone.
Farming began in Denmark in about 3000 BC and from this date the population steadily grew. However, it was in AD 800, when Viking raiding commenced, that Denmark started to exert itself on the world stage. At the height of their power, the Danish had accumulated a sizable empire and a Dane (Canute) even sat on the throne of England.
Trading was the other significant Danish achievement. In the 13th century, Denmark came to dominate trade in the area and the Hanseatic League helped expand this further. Numerous conflicts followed over the centuries until finally Denmark sided with Napoleon (due to some pretty hideous British behaviour) an alliance that left the country broken.
WW I saw Denmark staying neutral but WWII saw the Danes under Nazi rule. After the war, rebuilding and restructuring went on culminating in Denmark joining the EU. This has subsequently become a contentious issue in Denmark where many are reluctant Europeans.
Compared to its northern neighbours Denmark is a gently rolling green and pleasant land. It lacks the drama of Norway or its climatic extremes. The country is essentially a collection of some 400 islands just under a quarter of which are occupied. Apart from Zealand (which is actually linked to the mainland), where Copenhagen really does dominate, the main islands are Jutland and Funen.
But There Is Nothing To Do Outside Copenhagen. Right?
Not entirely true, although most of the country is rural agricultural land that does not mean it is bereft of life or interest. There's lots of interesting things to do, really, honest there are. OK, so there is not loads to see and do but the pace of life is tranquil, its rarely crowded, the countryside is verdant and there are some half decent things to see along the way. In many areas the best and most fitting way to see the country is by bike.
Zealand: To Be or Not to Be
So far, I have resisted the temptation to make jokes about Shakespeare's famed procrastinator but Elsinore; the alleged home of the imaginary prince of Denmark, is real enough. The town guards the Oresund, a busy sea route on the north of the island. The town's prosperity was based on the dues extracted from passing ships but this seafaring history is forgotten in the world of Shakespearean tourism. For the real Hamlet experience, visit the Kronenburg Castle for a wander round the ramparts.
To the west of Copenhagen, lies Roskilde, home to The Viking Ship Museum based around 5 reconstructed longboats.
Further west still is the Viking ring fortress at Trelleborg.
Bornholm
The Danes and other visitors love this place. It is a small island right out in the Baltic almost 200 km east of Copenhagen. It is a cyclist's paradise; tourism is strictly controlled so that crowds are never a problem. The beaches and gentle landscape make this a true antidote to the hustle and bustle of the capital.
Funen
Visitors going to and from Jutland and Copenhagen often pass through this island but it is not without its charm or interest. The main town of Odense (birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen) is pleasant enough to stroll around. There are also a number of castles one of the best being Egeskov castle.
Jutland
The largest landmass of Denmark is also the one least affected by the power of the capital. Just under 50% of the country's population live here, yet due to the capital-centric attitude of the Danes over the years, Jutland has a real provincial atmosphere. The places to go and visit are the lakes in the mid part of the peninsula and the towns of Aalborg and Arhus. As with most of the rest of the country there are castles dotted about and many churches in between but it is the slower pace here that attracts visitors and keeps them coming back.
Legoland
Apart from Mr Andersen's Fairy Tales and Mr Molby's midfield wizardry Denmark's other great gift to the world (Never mind Nihls Bohr and all the other Nobel laureates) is a childs toy. When an unemployed carpenter began making wooden toys in the 1930's little did he know the path he was setting off down. The interlocking plastic bricks with which we are all so familiar first came off the production line in 1947 and the rest is history. This theme park (one of three in the world) is devoted to this simple toy loved by so many. Over a million visitors a year have made this the number one tourist attraction in Denmark.
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