Czech Republic Travel Guide
Prague
Capital of the Republic and a living repository of architecture from times long gone. Prague is not huge and most of the interest lies in the original four districts, it is a place made for ambling around. It has also become one of the hot spots for nightlife in Europe.
Just about every historical act that has occurred in Czech lands was centred on Prague; every passage of conquest or rebellion either began or ended in Prague. The cities history reflects that of the country at large. Despite its chequered past it did enjoy several 'Golden Ages' that are reflected wonderfully in its architecture. A stroll around the centre is like being in a medieval theme park.
Considering the strife and conflict that has swirled around it, Prague has done well to emerge so intact. The same thing goes for the people. The post communist years were a free-for-all of out-of-control capitalism, now things are beginning to calm down and Prague is beginning to regain its status as a respectable pillar of the European community.
Where to go and What to See
Mala Strana
The 'Little Quarter' is what gives Prague its image as the archetypal Baroque city. This small area has altered very little since Mozart (a frequent visitor) strolled amongst its narrow alleyways. Dominating the skyline is the Church of St Nicholas, a stunning example of baroque architecture. Begun in 1702 and completed in the early 1750's this church is spectacular both inside and out. Incidentally, this is the church of Father Christmas; this is the St Nicholas who went on to become Santa Claus.
Nerudova, a street named for Czech writer Jan Neruda, was home to the Prague artist's quarter; although the artists are gone, the galleries and craft shops that abound here continue the arty legacy.
Baroque Palaces on picturesque medieval squares are all over, there are several decent museums and the terraced gardens below the castle are all worth a lingering look and the Petrin park is the cities largest and home to a copy of the Eiffel Tower.
Prague Castle
As the cities most popular destination be prepared to be part of a throng. Prague Castle is the world's largest ancient castle (570m long and 128m wide) and its immediate environs containing churches and other former ecclesiastical buildings cover an even bigger area. The whole thing is huge and it takes some covering. Try and take in the Royal Garden with its splendid Ball-Game House and Summer Palace. St Vitus Cathedral is the countries largest place of worship, begun in 1344, it was only completed just over 500 years later. The dominating feature of the whole complex is the Great Tower, the view from the top is tremendous. Also worth a look is the Old Royal Palace and the Basilica of St George a fine and well preserved Romanesque edifice.
One of the areas outside the castle is the Hradcany; basically a residential area, the 'new' bits date back at least two centuries and much of it goes back further. The main attraction here is the Hradcanske namesti, a very grand square skirted with assorted Palaces.
The Castle and Hradcany are two of the most significant sites in the city, you can almost taste the past coming out of the stones. Do not miss this one.
Charles Bridge
One of the most popular sites in the city both for locals and tourists, there is never a dull moment on this 600-year-old bridge. There are all manner of street entertainers, buskers, vendors and pickpockets. The bridge was used for wheeled transport for most of its lifetime and has only recently become pedestrian only. The most notable feature of the bridge is the statuary that lines its parapets - these days most are copies, the originals are elsewhere. Most of the statues are of a religious nature from the Baroque period, although some were added in the 19th century. The bridge does get massively busy during the day either go early or late to avoid the throng. The other feature of the bridge is that it does offer terrific views of the Castle and the city up and down the river.
Wenceslas and his Square, Velvet Revolution, Prague Spring and other Rebellions.
If you are a fan of revolution and rebellion, there are a plethora of sites to visit in Prague. Perhaps that is only to be expected in a city that has spent so much time under various oppressive regimes.
The figure of Jan Hus dominates Prague and Czech history. Hus was a priest who, a hundred years before Luther, began to preach for reform of the Catholic Church. He was martyred for his actions and this sparked a rebellion that was as much pro national independence as it was anti Catholicism. A statue in Old Town Square commemorates Hus. This square is where another uprising effectively ended. Soviet Tanks rolled across the square in August 1968 marking the suppression of the Prague Spring reformist movement. The suppression of these reforms and the replacement of the (comparatively) liberal Alexander Dubcek with pro Soviet ministers led to another famed act of defiance on Wenceslas Square. In 1969 student Jan Palach set light to himself in protest against the restrictions this new regime had imposed. This marked the end of rebellion that was only to begin rearing its head again in 1976 with the writings of Vaclav Havel and others. This eventually came to a head following on from Gorbachov becoming Soviet leader and the process of glasnost and perestroika. In 1989, again in Wenceslas Square, 250,000 people gathered to celebrate the end of Communist rule over the country.
Wenceslas Square has witnessed other rebellions and uprisings one of the more notable being the protests against the rule of the Nazis and the Treaty of Munich in 1938.
The greatest act of resistance against the foreign oppressors also happened in Prague. On 27th May 1942, two young Czechs waited on a street corner in the Holesovice district for the Reichsprotektor Reinhard Heydrich. The bomb that killed Heydrich, the so-called architect of the 'Final Solution,' sadly initiated swift and merciless retribution that the Nazis rained down on many innocent members of the Czech populace.
Prague is rich with memorials to its many fallen rebels and martyrs. Even now, when the populace lives in a state of freedom and progress they are still not off protesting en masse to let those in charge know who really calls the shots.
Kafka
I confess to having a liking for good old ever-cheery Franz. Any man who can write about a bloke who wakes up to discover he has transformed in his sleep into a giant bug is all right by me.
Kafka was born in 1883 and died in 1924 from the TB that had blighted much of his life. He was largely un-appreciated in his own lifetime and for many years after. Now however he is hailed as a major figure of Czech culture and is the centre of quite an industry for literary tourists. He lived nearly all his life in Prague, mostly with his parents. There is a small museum dedicated to this gloomy man of letters next to St Nicholas Church in the former ghetto district of Josefov. Lord knows what having a museum in his memory would do to his paranoia.
Eat, Drink and a Place to Sleep
Do not expect to go to Prague and lose weight. Their central European neighbours influence the food heavily. There is lots of Pork, dumplings, potatoes and sauerkraut all sent on its way with a healthy litre or two of beer. Despite this in recent years there have seen an influx of restaurants representing a more international cuisine some of it very good.
Apart from the beer you could try the wine (mostly not great) or the fiery spirits and liqueurs like Slivovice (plum brandy) absinth (still legal here, hurrah) or Fernet (yeuchh). Whichever way you slice it you will find that the Czech Republic is a country with completely unreconstructed, healthy love of bars, pubs and other such drinking places.
Prague has, in the years since the 'Velvet Revolution', earned a deserved reputation for the high-octane nature of its nightlife. Clubs of all kinds abound, the flavour of the moment is Techno but as with anywhere else the club scene is a shifting, movable feast.
Prague has also built something of a name for itself as a rock venue town. Mick and the Stones were there recently for Old Rubber Lips 60th birthday.
Despite years of Soviet rule Prague has many well appointed hotels to suit all budgets.Prices tend to rise duringth esummer but real bargains can be found in the off season. Everything is available from fine old luxury hotels to backpackers hostels.
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